Why Your Feet Slip on Good Holds (Try This Simple Test)
You place your foot carefully on a hold. It feels solid, you trust it, and you begin to move. Then, without warning, it slips.
Most climbers assume this comes down to poor footwork, the wrong shoes, or just bad luck. While those can all play a role, there is another factor that is often overlooked, and that is your ankle’s ability to move into the position the hold requires.
More specifically, it comes down to something called ankle dorsiflexion, which is your ability to bring your knee forward over your toes. If you do not have enough of this, it becomes much harder to use your feet effectively, even if your placement looks good.
There is a simple way to check whether this might be limiting you.
The Knee-to-Wall Test (Ankle Dorsiflexion)
The knee-to-wall test is commonly used in physiotherapy to assess ankle mobility. Although it is not specific to climbing, it directly relates to how well you can position and load your feet on the wall.
To perform the test, stand facing a wall and place one foot flat on the ground a short distance away. From there, bend your front knee and try to touch it to the wall without allowing your heel to lift. Keeping the heel down is essential, as lifting it removes the demand on the ankle and makes the test much easier.
Once you can touch the wall comfortably, you can begin to move your foot slightly further back and repeat the movement. This allows you to get a sense of how much range you have. A general guideline is that less than five centimetres indicates a restriction, five to ten centimetres is moderate, and anything beyond that is considered good. You do not need to measure this precisely, but it gives you a useful reference point.
What This Means for Your Climbing
If you struggle to move your knee forward without your heel lifting, it means your ankle cannot access the range needed for many common climbing positions. This has a direct impact on how effectively you can use your feet.
One of the most noticeable effects is on small footholds. When standing on a small edge or smear, you need to bring your knee forward so that your weight is positioned directly over your foot. This increases friction and allows you to stay balanced. If your ankle cannot move far enough, your weight stays slightly behind the hold, which makes it feel less secure and more likely to slip. This is why footholds can feel worse than they actually are, even when your placement looks correct.
This limitation also affects how much you can trust your feet. Even on reasonably good holds, a lack of dorsiflexion prevents you from fully loading the foot. Instead of being able to stand up through your leg with control, you often end up relying more on your arms, moving more quickly than you should, or hesitating because the position does not feel stable. Over time, this reinforces the idea that your feet are unreliable, when in reality it is the position that is the issue.
On slab climbs, this becomes even more obvious. Slab relies heavily on balance and precise positioning, and a key part of that is being able to move your knee over your toes. If your ankle restricts this movement, you will find it harder to stay balanced, and you may compensate by leaning into the wall or overusing your hands. This is why some climbers feel comfortable on steeper terrain but struggle on slabs, even though slabs are often perceived as less physically demanding.
High steps are also affected. When you step high onto a foothold, you need to bring your knee forward over your foot in order to stand up efficiently. If your ankle does not allow this, your heel may lift or your weight may shift backward, which makes the movement feel unstable and harder than it should. Instead of standing up smoothly, you end up fighting against the position.
Why Most Climbers Miss This
Ankle mobility is rarely something climbers focus on. Most attention tends to go towards fingers, arms, and sometimes hips, but ankles are often ignored. On top of that, a typical warm-up, which might involve climbing a few easy routes, does not guarantee that your ankle has moved through the range it needs under load.
Because of this, the limitation only becomes obvious when you encounter a move that requires it, and by then it is easy to blame technique or the difficulty of the climb rather than the underlying restriction.
What To Do About It
If you find that your ankle mobility is limited, the aim is not to force more range immediately, but to gradually improve both movement and control. One simple approach is to repeat the knee-to-wall movement in a controlled way, gently moving into the position and then back out again, focusing on keeping the heel grounded.
You can also introduce movements such as slow lunges or step-ups, where you consciously allow the knee to travel forward over the toes while maintaining control. The key point is that you are not just stretching the ankle passively, but teaching it to move into this position under load, which is exactly what climbing requires.
The Bigger Picture
If this test exposed a limitation, it does not mean your footwork is poor or that you lack ability. It simply means your body is not fully prepared for the positions you are trying to use.
That distinction matters, because preparation can often be improved relatively quickly. As your ankle becomes more comfortable moving into these positions, footholds tend to feel more stable, more predictable, and easier to trust, which has a noticeable impact on how you climb.